Get A Handle On Paella
Sun Herald
Sunday April 20, 2003
It lends its name to a type of orange, but Valencia is a sophisticated city full of cultural and culinary delights, Graham Simmons writes.
DOES the word Valencia conjure up images of oranges and steaming pans of paella? Such a perception would not be far from the mark. But Valencia has a good deal more to offer than simple culinary delights. It doesn't take long to get a feel for this funky city, which combines style and a sunny disposition.
Sightseeing
The heart of the city is the Carmen precinct. Take in the central market (the biggest in Europe) and La Lonja, the 15th-century silk exchange.
Then allow plenty of time for a visit to Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciencies (Valencian for City of the Arts and Sciences). Key features include L'Hemisferic (incorporating a planetarium and laserium); Palau de les Arts, an opera house looking like a lunar-landing pod; and Museu de les Ciencies Principe Felipe (Prince Philip Science Museum), one of Europe's best new museums open 10am to 8pm daily (9pm on Saturdays). For details, phone +34 902 300 031 or see the website: www.cac.es/home.php?idioma=i#
Finally, take a trip out to the Albufera , a wetlands of lagoons and rice paddies. The Albufera lagoon is one of the richest wetlands in Europe, with an astonishing variety of bird life.
Food and drink
The short-grain Arborio rice grown in the Albufera is the basis of the famous Spanish rice dish, paella. The word paella is an old Valencian term for a cooking dish with a couple of handles. Farmers near the village of El Palmar devised a rice-based dish that would make use of cheap local products, such as game, beans and snails.
This classic dish, known as Paella Valenciana, is most famously served at La Pepica , a 104-year-old establishment patronised by the King and Queen of Spain.
Other chic restaurants for Valencian cuisine include Casa Clemencia, near the university, and Les Xarxies (Av Argaon 16), which has 27 types of rice dishes.
Shopping
For paella pans and accoutrements, try any of the stalls just outside the central market. Another specialty of Valencia is Lladro porcelain the factory shop at Tavernes Blancas (number 16 bus from Plaza del Ayuntamiento ) has some real bargains.
Calle Colon is perhaps the best shopping street. Shops include Naturaleza (for everything from paper lamps to bed linen and bronze Buddhas), El Corte Ingles, specialising in model cars, Habitat for fine furniture and Loewe for exotic leather-goods.
For hats, try Albero at Calle Xativa 21 (next to the central station) and find fashion shoes at Pepe Morreno, Calle Jorge Juan, 8. For the finest quality glass, ceramics and furnishing items, at reasonable prices, check out Casa Monet, at Calle Serrano 10.
Night life
Valencia Is famous for its night life, from chill-out bars to discos, clubs and Latin clubs. It's a town that likes to party, late.
La Edad de Oro (Generosa Hernandez 1, near La Lonja silk exchange), is a cafe-bar with a popular outdoor terrace. Open 10am until late. Xino Xano (at Calle alta 28) is a good bar with three levels; reggae music, art exhibitions and poetry nights are specialities. Open 3pm to 2am daily.
Roxy (San Vicente, 200), the quintessential disco, is open 1am to 7am. La Indiana (San Vicente, 97) attracts an international crowd with live concerts plus salsa and funk.
Black Note (Poly y Peyrolon, 15) is a top choice for music freaks. Live bands start about midnight every night. Top American and European groups often perform here. Havana Club (Juan Llorens, 41) is recommended for Latin music.
THOSE IN THE KNOW
Hang out at: La Comedia Calatrava 19, off Plaza Negrito and Calle Caballeros, is a genuine bohemian hangout. (Where else these days can you get real absinthe?) Every Tuesday at midnight the house conducts a flea market auction of antiques and other bric-a-brac.
Head for: Radio City (Sta. Teresa, 19, phone +34 96 391 4151) is a venue for live music, circus, participating in dance, theatre and tai chi, and much more. Open daily 9 am till late. Live flamenco every Tuesday. See: http://www.radiocityvalencia.com.
TRANSFERS
Most visitors arrive by train from Barcelona (two to three hours). Taxi fare from Valencia station to major hotels is about $5 to $7.
ACCOMMODATION
Budget: Pension Paris, Calle Salva, 12, phone +34 96 352 6766 . Rooms: $25 to $45.
Mid-range: Hotel Ad-Hoc, Calle Boix, 4, phone + 34 96 391 9140 , Rooms: $163 to $260.
Luxury: Hotel Sidi Saler, Playa del Saler, phone +34 96 161 0411 , Rooms: $247 to $275.
AVERAGE PRICE, $A
Cup of coffee: $1.60 inside; $2 at sidewalk tables.
Glass of beer: $1.80.
Bottle of wine: $3 to $30.
Roll of film: $15.
Three-course meal: $16 to $35.
© 2003 Sun Herald
