Orange

Sydney Morning Herald

Thursday April 24, 2008

Mark Chipperfield

Mark Chipperfield samples the pleasures and history of this inland wine region.

If things had gone to plan the town of Borenore should have rivaled Carrara in the world of marble. Frank Rusconi, the Italian-trained stonemason who opened the Borenore mine, reckoned the rock outshone Tuscany's finest. "I have worked marble from every continent in the world," he wrote, "and the best was the Prince Edward Grey from Borenore."

In its heyday, the Borenore Quarries employed more than 100 men. The ornate stone was used in many great public buildings, including the Art Gallery of NSW and Melbourne Town Hall. But the world did not share Rusconi's enthusiasm for the marble and the quarry closed in 1927. A single block of stone, too large to squeeze on the train, now sits forlornly outside the town's railway station. It's a fitting tribute to a man who lost his marble, but not his creative urge - Rusconi later created the Dog on the Tuckerbox in Gundagai.

For me, the real glory of Orange (population 39,000) is in the outlying settlements of Borenore, Blayney, Lucknow and Millthorpe, each with its own story of colonial hubris, folly and triumph. Along the way, you'll stumble on well-tended vineyards, abundant orchards and leafy farm lanes.

Some of the most picturesque countryside is to be found around Mount Canobolas, which, at 1395 metres, is said to be the highest point between Sydney and Mozambique. Canobolas-Smith Wines is typical of the region - a small vineyard, on the northern slopes of Mount Canobolas, making full-flavoured chardonnay, cabernet, shiraz and dessert wines. The tasting room, little more than a tin shed, overlooks the vines. A cattle dog snoozes in the sunshine. Despite the reputation of its grapes - which are now bought by winemakers from around Australia - Orange has been slow to jump on the wine tourism bandwagon. But the winds of change are blowing through the wide, sleepy boulevards. A sign of things to come is the Union Bank on Sale Street. Owned by Belgravia vineyards, this beautifully renovated complex includes a tasting room and contemporary bistro.

While there are plenty of dining and shopping options in Orange, finding groovy accommodation is more difficult. Rather than stay in one of the city's motels or B&Bs, we opted for the newly opened de Russie Suites on Hill Street.

More South Yarra than central NSW, this boutique establishment has 23 studios and suites (each with a galley kitchen, king bed, cable television and luxurious bathrooms), but falls short of the "five-star urban style" promised on the website. Our room overlooked the Baptist Church car park.

The service at de Russie was, at best, perfunctory. Reception staff reprimanded us for being late on Friday night - even though we'd phoned ahead to warn them - and were unable to organise an evening snack or a morning newspaper. The complimentary breakfast box was also disappointing - luckily we found a cheerful little place called Cafe Latte just around the corner.

On the plus side, de Russie Suites is quiet, centrally located and easy to find. One morning I wandered down Hill Street to the local swimming pool, passing grand Victorian houses and well-tended rose gardens. Later that day we spent an hour in nearby Cook Park, a delightful old-style park with duck ponds and an Edwardian conservatory.

Orange has much to offer the visitor - ravishing countryside, superb produce, well-preserved colonial architecture and plenty of local folkore. Just take your time - and leave room in the boot for a case or two of wine.

Need to know

de Russie Suites

72 Hill Street, Orange, NSW 2800.

Phone: 6360 0973; www.derussiehotels.com.au.

Cost

Junior suites from $220 a night, including continental breakfast provisions.

Distance from Sydney 250 kilometres.

Children welcome Yes.

Where to eat

Belgravia at Union Bank

Cnr Sale and Byng Streets, Orange.

Phone: 6361 4441.

The menu is fresh, the staff friendly, and there's an excellent choice of wine by the glass. Open daily for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday; lunch only on Sundays.

The School House Restaurant

Phone: 6365 9295.

The dishes were pleasant and the setting and atmosphere were great. Open for dinner Thursday to Saturday and weekend lunch.

Tonic

Cnr Pym and Victoria Streets, Millthorpe.

Phone: 6366 3811.

We were bowled over. My twice-cooked venison with roasted figs and parsnip puree was a triumph, as was the roasted pork loin with kipfler potatoes and braised red cabbage. Open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday and for brunch and lunch

on the weekends.

Where to shop

Hillside Orchard

1209 Escort Way, Borenore.

Phone: 63652247.

Open daily, this farm shed has the finest selection of apples, plums, pears, peaches, apricots and berries.

D'arcy's Old Wares

Mitchell Highway, Lucknow.

Phone: 6365 5126.

Release your inner Steptoe and enter this Aladdin's cave of the pre-loved, the kitsch and the truly bizarre.

What To Do

Taste Wine. There are about 40 vineyards in the Orange region, but only a handful operate cellar doors. Of these, Philip Shaw Wines, Mayfield, Word of Mouth and Canobolas-Smith are all excellent.

Where To Drive

Borenore. Just 11km to the west, this minuscule hamlet holds all sorts of delights, including The Borenore Store in a historic train station.

Millthorpe. This higgle-piggledy village seems to have changed little since Ben Hall was in short pants. Apart from Tonic, its one-hatted restaurant, Millthorpe has a general store, a train station and two pubs.

Any Complaints?

The hotel swimming pool was not actually big enough to swim in.

Don't Miss

Although it's too late for this year, F.O.O.D Week (held every April) includes cooking workshops, gala dinners, wine tastings, live music, dances and many other activities. Visit www.orangefoodweek.com.au.

© 2008 Sydney Morning Herald

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